Visit Oya’s Umami, a new restaurant in Goa that serves authentic Naga food
“Food, for all of us, is a memory,” says Ati Aier with a smile, as I bite into a fluffy, cloud-like mushroom bao. “For me, it was my grandmother’s amrusu, a hearty rice gruel with bamboo shoot juice, laced with the sharpness of chillies.” Ati at one of her pop-ups | Photo Credit: Special arrangement We are in Miramar at Ati’s newly opened restaurant, Oya’s Umami. Ati has been hosting supper clubs at her home for a few years now, as well as popups at several events, where her attempts to simplify Naga flavours for the uninitiated have not gone…